A Tribute to John U. Miller, Jr.

A Tribute to John U. Miller, Jr.

The story of Watermelon Park and the Clarke County family that invented the bluegrass festival

Story and photos by Jennifer M. Lee

I started contributing to the Clarke Monthly newspaper in 2013, and my first writing assignment will always be one of my favorites. I grew up on the mountain in Clarke County and knew Watermelon Park from the east bank of the river for decades before attending the resurrected (in 2004) Watermelon Park Festival for many joyful years.  But I had not met John U. Miller, Jr, aka Junior, aka June, aka Paw Paw, so did not foresee the delightful few hours I would spend with him at his home and in his greenhouse on a summer afternoon over 11 years ago.  

I learned about his family history and their love of bluegrass music, how watermelons became the genesis of the park and Miller’s Fruit Stand, and why the Watermelon Park Festival ended in 1979 and was reborn in 2004, with new players on and off the stage.  I also learned about resilience, determination, and passion. 

Mr. Miller possessed a commanding yet gentle demeanor and a magnetic sparkle of humor in his steely blue eyes. He gave me a great interview while he tended his hydroponic tomato plants and greeted me with a big smile, hug, and joke whenever I saw him at subsequent music festivals.

It’s hard to lose old friends, community icons, local legends — and Mr. Miller was all that.  That he lost his life in a vehicle accident at the intersection next to where he spent decades selling fruit and vegetables is a tragic and bizarre twist of fate. At 88, he had led a full and eventful life, and in 2019 received a Resolution of Appreciation from the Clarke County Board of Supervisors for his and Watermelon Park’s contributions to the history of Americana, bluegrass, and country music. 

We at Clarke Monthly thought it would be timely to rerun the article in tribute to Mr. Miller and his lifetime work at Watermelon Park.  We send Mr. Miller’s family and friends our condolences and know that his legacy and memory will live on for many years to come.

— JML

Drive by Watermelon Park on any summer day, and you’ll see between a dozen and several hundred people enjoying a picnic, a river float, some fishing. Talk to John U. Miller, Jr., or Junior as he’s known and you will hear a story that belongs in the pantheons of music history and bootstrap-
pulling entrepreneurship.

It begins in about 1928, when Miller’s father John, Sr. had been turned loose from his family’s home in Berkeley Springs, W.Va. He was told to go find work to support himself. “Dad was one of 13 kids,” said Miller.

One night they all sat down to a meal of homemade bread and soup made with bark that his mother had stripped off the trees. “The three oldest brothers were told they had to go, they had to find work to support themselves, because the family couldn’t do it anymore,” recounts Miller. “Dad was 15. Can you imagine that?”

The brothers headed out westward together, but ended up going separate ways, with John Sr. deciding to head back east by hanging around the tracks and hopping trains.

“He was a hobo,” Miller said. After searching up and down the east coast, John Sr. heard there was work in Clarke County, and hopped off the train at Old Chapel. He was directed to Springsbury Farm, where he worked for a couple years before answering a call for laborers to help enlarge the Route 7 route through Snicker’s Gap pass, which would lead to a replacement bridge spanning the Shenandoah in 1939. “He was making 55 cents an hour—a darn good wage then—digging the gap,” Miller said.

The Melons

With his earnings, John Sr. bought a horse and some farm equipment, and started growing watermelons on a patch of river bottomland north of what is now Watermelon Park. With his eye on expanding his crop, he approached C.E. Price, who owned the 300-acre farm along the river just south of Miller’s patch. They agreed on a 3-year rental agreement of $500 a year. “there was no way Dad could afford the $12,000 sale price Mr. Price was asking,” Miller explained.

Determined to sell enough watermelons from 1936 to 1939 to purchase the property, John Sr. nevertheless faced failure and expressed concern to his wife Rose toward the end of the 3-year lease.

John Jr. and his crystal blue eyes tell the story: “Dad never drank, never smoked, never cussed. But he did not hesitate to grab the gun if someone messed with his watermelon patch. So one evening, a car pulls up down there, and a guy gets out with his fishin’ pole and goes tramping across the watermelon patch to the river. So Dad went down to ‘fill ‘im up.’ Well, wouldn’t you know, that man was the head produce buyer for Acme grocery stores.”

And with that, John Sr. was selling watermelons to Acme. “So Dad started growing more watermelons,” said Miller. “They were piled high as a house. But he didn’t have a reliable way to get them to the stores in Charles Town, Martinsburg, and Hagerstown.”

With the assistance of Mr. Price’s truck, the watermelons were distributed, and a thriving business was launched. John Miller, Sr., bought the 300-acre farm in 1939. “Yeah, people used to say he could throw a quarter across the room, and it’d be a 50-cent piece by the time he walked over to pick it up,” John Jr. chuckled about his father’s good fortune and good sense.

The senior Miller continued to grow his watermelon business, renting bottomland up and down the river, planting over 100 acres of melons at a time. In 1942, at the age of 6, John Jr. was set up with a wagon of melons at the corner of Route 7 and Chilly Hollow Road (where Nall’s is now located), Friday to Sunday, during the season. “Might be six cars go by a day, but every one of ‘em stopped and bought a watermelon,” John Jr. recalls.

Watermelons were something of a novelty around here at that time. Typically grown in the south, they had to travel a long, hot way to get here, by which time they were mushy and sour. The Millers grew just one kind, the Cannonball, an heirloom variety known for its drought-tolerance, large size, fast growth, and sweet, bright red fruit. A fresh, crisp watermelon must certainly have been an exotic treat for weary travelers and local passers-by.

In the 1950s, the watermelon wagon was expanded into a full-fledged fruit and vegetable stand where the Millers sold a variety of fruit and vegetables, many grown in their five greenhouses flanking Route 7. John Jr. ran the stand for over 45 years. Before his father died in 1995, he said to Miller, “June (his nickname for his son), go back to that old place on the river. Spend some time, spend some money, and it’ll make you some money.”

The Music

In the early 1940s, there was no mail delivery to the mountain folks living across the river. There was a long line of mailboxes along the road on the Miller property, to which people would boat across the river, guitars and banjos in tow, to pick up their mail and gather to listen and play music. “Dad loved the music, so he built a stage, decided to have a Watermelon Festival, and invited the Carter Family as the first act.” The stage was indeed set.

Three Sundays a year in late August through early September, John Sr. held the watermelon/bluegrass festival, advertising on the back page of the Winchester Evening Star and selling 10-cent chances on watermelons. 
The earnings from that would pay the $10-$15 needed to compensate the entertainment. “He was just crazy about bluegrass. But he’d hire Bill Monroe on a Sunday, and not 200 people would come. But they’d all buy a watermelon,” recounts Miller.

Knowing there could and should be more—more people and more music—John Sr. appealed to music promoter Don Owens at Washington DC’s TV Channel 5 for help in “bringing every bluegrass music group there is” to his farm for 
one day.

That day was August 10, 1960. Bill Monroe, Jim & Jesse, the Osborne Brothers, and other top names in bluegrass showed up to play for a crowd of 7,000 people. “Traffic was backed up from here to Route 7,” Miller said. Tickets were a buck apiece.

From 1960 to 1979, the Watermelon Festival grew alongside the melons, attracting some of the biggest names in bluegrass and country music, including Johnny Cash, Merle Haggard, Dolly Parton, Ralph Stanley, George Jones, and Loretta Lynn. “Johnny Cash hired the Statler Brothers on that stage. Porter Wagner hired Dolly Parton,” Miller declared.

The quality of the music was indisputable, and the crowds grew to the five digits. By the end of the 70s, tens of thousands of people were descending on the riverside plot for the annual festival to listen, frolic, and occasionally raise a ruckus. “They were drinkin, takin’ drugs, streakin’,” Miller explains. “Dad didn’t like any of that; that was sinnin’ to him.”

At the last festival, in 1979, while Merle Haggard was singing Fightin’ Side of Me, a disgruntled customer shot and wounded a belt buckle vendor and two other young men. “Dad got on the stage and shut it down right then and there. That was it. It broke his heart,” remembers Miller. The perpetrator, a postmaster from Sterling, Va., was sentenced to 15 years in prison. Lawsuits were filed and subsequently 
dismissed, and John Sr. paid the hospital bills of the injured, according to Miller.

Over the next twenty or so years, the campground sat relatively quiet. People still camped, gathered, and utilized the river access, and there were occasional gospel music concerts, but the big crowds and big bluegrass names were no longer invited.

Meanwhile, Miller’s Fruit Stand flourished and John Jr. toiled with his memories of playing music himself—he had travelled around in his own greyhound bus with his band, and signed to MGM records, a major label, in the 60s and 70s. This had been the dream—the bus, the band, and the label—he had told his skeptical father early on he would achieve. Indeed, he achieved it, though he found more of a reception in Canada than the States.

Directly across the river at Shepherd’s Ford, in the 1970s and 80s, Frazer Watkins was working at his mother Gertie Watkins’ retreat center, where small groups gathered to listen to gospel concerts, meditate, and enjoy the peace and quiet. Frazer and John Jr. tell a parallel story of Mrs. Watkins and Mr. Miller not quite seeing eye to eye from bank to bank. “Mom wanted to know when Mr. Miller had his events scheduled so she could schedule hers around them,” said Watkins. “But I guess he was afraid she wanted to shut him down or something. Anyway, they were not the best of friends.”

The county subsequently stepped in to mediate and measure decibel levels, resulting in the Watermelon Park stage being moved to face away from the river.

Frazer Watkins had a deeply instilled love and ear for music from around the world and around the block. His musician friend Dave Van Deventer (of the band Furnace Mountain) often walked his dog by Watermelon Park in the early 2000’s, wondering what the place was all about. As Watkins filled him in on its rich and varied history, they, with the input of Dwayne Brooke (of the band The Woodshedders) started plotting to resurrect the festival, recruit excellent regional and local music talent, and promote it. By the time Frazer had talked with a receptive John Jr. about the plan and they had received approval from the county, the newly formed Shepherds Ford Productions had 90 days to put together the Watermelon Park Fest in 2004.

Several local groups, including Furnace Mountain and The Woodshedders, played the event to an estimated audience of 500. “There was a flood 24 hours before the event, and we had to completely move the setup, so we weren’t sure ANYone would come,” 
recalls Watkins.

Now, nearing the 10th anniversary of Watermelon Park Fest, Watkins beams with gratitude about his place in its evolution. “I am so privileged to be a part of this legacy. I feel like I’ve been given a gift, one I take very, very seriously. I get to look far into the past of great musicians, and far into the future of great musicians.” He adds that the park has allowed others, like his daughter, to further themselves in their academic studies by weaving the history of Watermelon Park for masters’ level theses and film projects.

“We work well together,” said Frazer of John Jr.

“Never, ever have I ever doubted him,” Miller said of Frazer.

A few years ago, they agreed the park stage should return to its original location on the southwest side of the campground, facing the river.

The 10th anniversary of the resurrected Watermelon Park Fest, September 26–28, will feature Del McCoury, J.D. Crowe, Bobby Hicks, Larry Keel and Natural Bridge, and—get this—Bobby Osborne, 53 years after he played the first bluegrass festival at Watermelon Park. The crowds now number around 3,500, and management does not want that number to exceed 5,000—this, to keep the event manageable, intimate, and enjoyable for all festivalgoers and neighbors.

Miller and Watkins plan to continue to bring a few premier music events to Watermelon Park every year. Watkins is looking to national arts and cultural organizations to help bring additions like dance and the spoken word to the musical experience. “We really want to cultivate young musicians and artists, give them exposure, help them on their way,” he said.

There are now over 1,000 bluegrass festivals worldwide. Many people credit Bluegrass Day at Watermelon Park as being the very first. There is no doubt that it enjoys and perpetuates a legacy of excellent music and rabid community support.

More Than Melons & Music

As most locals and all visitors know, Watermelon Park isn’t just about music. Having a river run through it brings thousands of people to its grassy, shady banks every year from April to November. Visitors can enjoy camping, fishing, picnicking, canoeing, tubing, kayaking, and simply splashing about in the old Shenandoah. And there are 100 sites offering water and electric and a freshly renovated bathhouse for campers, short and long-term.

The Watermelon Park General Store offers everything from fishing bait and licenses to ramen noodles and hula-hoops, in addition to flotation device rentals. Hope Miller, John Jr.’s daughter-in-law, happily serves up hand-dipped ice cream cones from a new stand at the park entrance. Eagles and herons fish from the river and children splash in its cool rapids.

And these days, John Miller, Jr., can be found tending his own watermelons. It’s a story that’s gone full circle, the evolution of a bucolic park stretching acres along the riverside welcoming thousands of visitors a year to enjoy entertainment and camaraderie.And it all started in the 1930s with a young, hungry man who had a love for music and a green thumb. It is a true story of guts, glory, and generations of folks coming together to make beautiful music.

Winter Session With The Union Men

Winter Session With The Union Men

By David Lillard

One January during winter break my father got me on with the union for a job at a refinery on the Delaware River. The union was the Heat and Frost Insulators & Asbestos Workers, Local 42. Pipe coverers. I was a helper — an official union designation. It was part gopher, part odd jobs, part man servant to pipe coverers replacing insulation on miles of pipes. These were not household pipes; they ranged in diameter from about ten inches to upwards of three feet.

The building was bigger than a football field. The ceiling seemed to disappear into clouds. The building was a labyrinth of pipes moving from one end to the other then curving back, the sameness broken only by giant metal chambers resembling walk-in freezers stacked two or three high. Large pipes went into the chambers; smaller ones came out.

No one offered me information about pipes or what the chambers were for. All I knew was that in a few weeks I’d make enough to pay my tuition and rent. College and rent were cheaper then.

The refinery had been turning crude oil into fuel for decades, which meant that everyone on the job — electricians, painters, fitters, pipe coverers, laborers, plumbers — were there to maintain it in working order. All were members of locals representing their trades. There were also a few engineers who were continuously looking at blueprints, rolling them and unrolling them with a practiced flourish.

 Everyone in the union had a nickname. There was Inky, Porky, Shorty, Pretty, Twiggy, Reds, and others. On my first day, I was given a nickname: College Guy. I didn’t like the name, but once given, it stuck. “Hey College Guy, get me a box of six inch. Hey College Guy, I need Number 10 bands.” Stuff like that.

My father, who’d accepted the responsibility of keeping me alive, introduced me to the storage trailer outside, a 53-foot model containing a well organized array of pipe covering things. He showed me where to find the six-inch (a diameter of insulation) and the bands. “Take these to Bruno and the bands to Porky.” 

Porky I knew from union picnics. Porky was friendly, smiled a lot, and had a way of announcing the phases of the day. “Coffee time,” at 10:15. “Lunch!” And my favorite, “Quittin’ time!” Not that anyone needed reminders; Porky just gave it added enthusiasm. So Bruno must be the other guy. 

Bruno was a traveler from Baltimore, a pipe coverer from another local who was either laid off or whose local was on strike. When you’re on strike, you can go work with another local as long as it’s not with the same company you’re striking against. Bruno was named for his physique. He resembled world champion professional wrestler Bruno Sammartini. He stood six feet four, and had the look of someone who could reach into your chest and yank out your heart. Sammartini, by then retired, had a winning smile on TV. This Bruno, the pipe coverer, seemed to lack the ability to smile, as if the rest of him was so muscular his body simply couldn’t spare the energy to smile. He wore a Van Dyke beard — dyed black — that gave him a mean look. Bruno was the one who named me College Guy.

He wore a bomber jacket, cut short, coated with marine wax so that it was waterproof. It was an old coat, but kept in mint condition. He wore it like a Brooks Brothers suit. By late morning, when the building temperature rose from the body heat of a hundred tradesmen, he would hang it on a spigot wherever he was working.

The work pipe coverers did was brutal. Imagine standing in a tight space between two sets of pipes or a boiler, your face looking up — beyond straight up, more like behind you. Your arms are outstretched to a pipe 12 inches in diameter. You’re fitting the specified insulation around a pipe, then adhering it with glue. The smell of the glue is enough to get you high. Then you secure the covering with a metal band, tightening it like a screw. You could spend a day or longer in one spot. 

Or you’re in a space that’s too low to stand, so you’re working all day in a crouched stance. And all the while you’re stretching and contorting. You ache. Your hands hurt. In winter, you never get warm. You come home beat up.

The work was dangerous, too. At one time, they used asbestos. This would take the lives of many of Dad’s workmates. Since the ‘60s, they used fiberglass weave, which also turned out to be harmful to the lungs. Or they used a rubber collar adhered to the pipe with noxious glue and coated with an hallucinogenic paint — the paint that would almost kill me.

Each day the same

The monotony of the day was painful. Each day was like all others. Arrive at 7:30am. Sit in the trailer with a dozen guys sipping coffee and trying to warm up. There would be chatter and joking, a bit of buzz in the hive. Just before the 8am whistle, they rose and walked the short distance from the trailer to the building chattering in groups of two or three, the light step of morning in their strides.

They worked either alone or in pairs until the 10:30 coffee break in the trailer. At lunchtime, the conversation was more serious, weighted by the prospect of the long afternoon. In the trailer, Bruno didn’t say much. He had no history with the other guys, no stories to retell. He could go all day without saying a word, except to direct me to fetch supplies. He had a particular nod for “good morning,” and another for quitting time. He was an agelastic sort, never smiling except the day I thought he would kill me.

I didn’t say much either. It was long before mobile phones, so I couldn’t sit scrolling the Web. I’d pick up a trade rag, like Heat and Frost Workers Journal, and skim it while listening to the guys complain that environmentalists were shutting down the world.

I look around that trailer and I remember old men. But they weren’t. My father was was just shy of 50. A couple guys were midway to 60, the age where a guy at a desk job is coming into his own, doing his best work. These guys, though, looked old. They were hoping to live long enough to retire on a decent pension.

One morning my father gave me an assignment: Apply a thick white paint that smelled of glue mixed with artificial pancake syrup on the pipes that were newly covered in rubber insulation.

“You paint this on the pipes, starting up top,” Dad said, pointing to the stratosphere. “Put it on as thick as you can without dripping. You don’t want it running around the pipe and dripping from the bottom. Put it on evenly.”

Looking up toward into the clouds, I could see the catwalks following the lines. Some pipes would be above my head, others down knee level or below the grate. I’d be on all fours a lot. “Try not to breathe this stuff,” Dad said.

“What about those gaps in the catwalk,” I asked. There were several short sections where a catwalk ended and the next one was several feet away — too far to reach the middle of the pipe.

“Shimmy across”, he said. “You paint as you go, shimmy back.” I looked up again and wondered why I hadn’t tried to pick up more hours stocking shelves and cleaning the floors at Woolworth’s. This was insane; a violation of some OSHA regulation. I could have filed a complaint with the shop steward, except my dad was the shop steward.

“You’ll need five cans for the first run at the top,” he said. “Get all your supplies up before you start.”

So I made several trips up the steps, which were more like a ladders with handrails — that steep. 

The work was tedious, but appealing on levels. The artist in me appreciated the layering of the paint that was as thick as potter’s clay. There was a meditative rhythm in the brush strokes, a satisfaction in seeing progress. From down on the floor I could see the shiny, crisp whiteness spreading in a slow march across the indoor sky. 

I learned to time trips down the ladder for breaks. It took five minutes to make it down, a third of the 15-minute morning and afternoon breaks. So I’d head down to re-supply early, and position my wares at the base of the ladders just as Porky called out, “Coffee time!”

Like all jobs onsite, this one involved constant up-and-downs. You work on your knees, then lying on your side reaching, bending, stretching, working overhead. Move the paint, stand up, kneel down, descend the ladders, go up the ladders. At my age, it was manageable, like an all-day workout. For the others, it was a world of hurt.

The fumes from the finish paint got me dizzy. By coffee break, I was feeling like a ghost; I wasn’t connected to my body. We didn’t have digital music then, but if we did, by 10am it would have been Pink Floyd. Hello, Is there anybody in there? Yeah, that paint was strong. Some mornings I didn’t go to the trailer for coffee time; I stood outside tripping in the cold winter breathing the relative purity of whatever came out of the smoke stacks. 

The pipe shimmy was a challenge. Straddling a pipe, painting what’s in front of me, a brush in one hand and a 12-pound can in the other, bending forward to paint the bottom of the pipe — all the while the floor looks more distant. I learned to paint the bottom of the pipe first, so I wasn’t leaning into fresh paint. It took some athleticism, which did not go unnoticed by the men. They’d started when younger than I. They remembered.

The fumes, though. I’d catch myself leaning too far to one side to the point of losing my balance, then abruptly I’d jolt upright to correct it. And I had to switch from hand to hand, brush and bucket, to hit both sides.

By lunchtime, I had a serious buzz on. I’d stare into my lunch box a long time before a voice in my head said, “That’s food. You eat it” I do? How do I eat? “You unwrap the sandwich and you bite it.” Like this?

“Yes, careful though, don’t bite your . . .” I bit my tongue. I bit my cheek. Then I went back up the ladder. “Is anybody in there?”

I had been managing okay, with just a few more straddle stretches until I could enjoy the safety of the catwalks for the remainder of the job. Then things fell apart. I was high as a weather balloon over the Delaware Memorial Bridge. I was hallucinating, in an altered state.

Near Death Experience

I had finished a section and was ready to get back on the catwalk when I stumbled. The paint sloshed out of my bucket. It seem to hang in the air like a cartoon coyote, waiting for me put the pail beneath it and catch it before it dropped. Or I could fly to it.

The paint, a solid quart of it, sloshed onto a grated catwalk below, where it splintered into a dozen smaller streams, splattering on and over pipes. Shouts came from below. “Incoming!” “Watch out!” The engineer and a few electricians pouring over schematics scurried away. It was like a tray of glasses hitting the floor in a restaurant — for a moment everything stopped, then everyone went about their business.

I regained consciousness, shimmied to the catwalk, and high-tailed down the ladders. My father handed me a box of shop rags — a big box. I started wiping up the worst of it just as the lunch whistle blew. A minute later Bruno appeared, holding his bomber jacket; it was streaked with white paint. “He doesn’t look happy,” my father said.

Bruno walked past without stopping. He looked at me shaking his head. “Sorry about the jacket,” I said to the back of his head. He paused, turned to me and looked at me. The expression said nothing, not “hey, no worries,” not, “I could kill you right here,” not, “You’re an idiot, College Guy.”

I spent much of lunchtime mopping up paint. I went to the trailer to grab my lunch, entering a room of a dozen guys shaking in fits of laughter. “ . . .  and Inky put his coffee down on the shelf and it’s glued by the Tough Bond to the shelf, and he ends up pulling the shelf down so he can drink his coffee. . . “ and the guy demonstrates holding a shelf in two hands to tip a coffee mug. More laughter. Then they see me standing at the door. 

“There he is!” 

“I thought the engineer would piss his pants!”

Then, “Remember when Twiggy took a leak into an empty bucket on the high walk at Haskell, then ended up kicking it over?” More laughing. Even my father was laughing. It’s one of my few memories of him laughing.

Here, I’d been walking around with my tail between my legs, but to the guys it was relief from the monotony of every day. It was comforting to hear how many of them had blundered like me — worse than me. Everyone laughed to the point of tears. Everyone but Bruno. He sat there expressionless as if in deep meditation. Then, as if by some internal clock that rouses the swallows to fly to Capistrano, they all rose and laughed their way out the door. As Bruno passed me, I mumbled feebly, “I’ll pay for a new jacket.”

In the truck on the way home, my father said, “You’re lucky you didn’t get killed.”

“By falling off the pipe or by Bruno,” I asked.

He laughed again, and he laughed again when he told the story to my mom. Dad wasn’t really a laugher, at least not as I remember.

The next morning we were in the trailer having coffee. In walked Bruno in a black canvas bomber jacket that looked tailor-made for him. Whistles and “whoas” all around.

Bruno spun around like on a runway. “What do think, College Guy,” he asked as friendly as a favorite uncle. I was frozen. Was he really talking to me?

“It looks like it was made while you were wearing it; perfect fit,” I said, and I’m pretty sure my voice was crackling in fear. Was this the point where he decked me? “How much do I owe you?”

Bruno looked me, shaking his head. “You owe me nothing. It was a 20-year-old coat. You know who you owe?” I waited.

“That guy,” he says, pointing to my father. “Finish school so you don’t have to do this your whole life.” I couldn’t look at my dad and he couldn’t look at me.

“You know why I call you College Guy?” Bruno asked.

I didn’t. I’d figured it was some kind of insult. “To remind you,” he said. “Remind you. Don’t mess up,” but he didn’t say mess.

“Know why I was wearing a 20-year-old coat?”

College Guy was taking a philosophy course, and Bruno was illustrating the Socratic method of teaching by asking questions. He waited for an answer. He leaned in. The silence in the trailer was like a Quaker meeting. “To save money?” I asked.

“For?” Bruno was encouraged by my question.

“To put your kid through college?”

Bruno smiled for the first time and took a slight bow. Some of the guys were like, “Yay,” as if I were a toddler that had taken a ride on a bike without training wheels. Bruno said, “I was in Korea and Nam. I don’t piss my pants coming to work like I did in the jungle, but my body hurts more. I’m 45 and I’m old. I’m an old man doing this.”

The whistle blew and we all filed out to work.

Friday was Bruno’s last day. He was heading back to his home local. I don’t remember anything about the morning. Lunch in the trailer was like others. Bruno was quiet except when responding to questions: Where was he headed (he was going to a maintenance job at Sparrow’s Point); what were the O’s prospects this spring (he followed boxing, not baseball).

As is tradition for travelers, Bruno would pack out after lunch. When the whistle blew, as the guys filed out of the trailer there were brotherly handshakes. I was last.

“Pleasure to work with you, David,” Bruno said pumping my hand.

“You, as well, sir.”

Later, I was cleaning up bits of insulation by the supply trailer. A soft honk drew my attention to Bruno’s truck as he turned toward the gate. He nodded to me with an almost imperceptible smile. Had I not known his stoned face so well I would have missed it. I waved, a bit awkwardly, as I do to this day. It’s me.

The next week, my last on the job, was different without Bruno. I appreciate people who don’t talk much. The guys continued without a beat. It’s what you do. People you don’t know come into your life, and then they leave. People you know do the same. They leave. You continue.

We have to forget nearly everything so we can remember. Life is a journey of continuous forgetting. That’s how we survive. We have to save space for things we want to remember, to make room for things like my last day on the job. We got home, and Dad reached into the fridge and pulled out two 16-ounce bottles of Reading. That was a first. We went into the living room — another first; that was a room where my parents sat with friends and family. We sipped silently.

Feeling the soothing effect of alcohol, I asked, “How did you do it?”

It took him a beat to get my drift. “It’s what we did. Get a job, hope to keep it until you get a pension.”

“I couldn’t do it. Not that kind of work. I learned that.”

“Good,” he said. “That’s why your mother and I are helping with college. Some of the guys brought their sons on; I never wanted that.”

My father retired a year later and lived blissfully on a union pension another three decades. I don’t remember us ever talking about my stint with the union, except when he’d tell me one of the guys had died. Sometimes, though, when he’d help paint a room at my house or a sibling’s, and someone would spill a little paint, he’d cry out, “Bruno’s coat!”

Poetry by Wendell Hawken

Winter Scene at Evening Stables 

Let’s say, five o’clock mid-winter. 
You’re down at evening stables, 
your quilted Carhartt’s on. 

Bare brown hills roll pink with color 
borrowed from tomorrow,
white in every word you mumble to the dogs. 

Your neighbor’s barn: a line of yellow squares, 
as yours must shine for her. 

She is younger than you are, has yet to get 
her horses in.

Each halter on its hook, water buckets full, 
rakes and pitch forks put away, 
you’ve had your whiff of summer 
in open bales of clover and alfalfa hay. 

The horses have the look they get—
thoughtful, far away—chewing grain.

Oh sure, you think about Tahiti. 
Or living life one wall away from other lives. 

How it would be to take your coffee back to bed 
and read till nine.  

But then you’d have to lock the house. 
Always pee inside. Weed and mow 
for stranger’s eyes. God knows what all. 

Halfway up the hill, the dogs turn and wait. 
Your neighbor leads two horses in, 
as yours stand deep in appetite.  

Their slopes of neck and rump 
and counter-curving spines gleam 
under yellow light. Another ordinary day. You flip the switch and shut the door. 
Whatever “ordinary” means.

— Wendell Hawken is poet laureate of Millwood, Va. She earned her MFA in Poetry from the Warren Wilson College Program for Writers and is the author of several celebrated chapbooks.

Poetry by Diana Kincannon

While Seated in Church During 
the Sermon

by Diana Kincannon

When I shall leave this earth behind
To fly through heavens blue,
I’ll claim a cloud and name a star
And look around for you.

We’ll visit where God’s garden is
And sit amongst the crowd
Of seraphim and cherubim.
We’ll sing God’s praise aloud!

Then we’ll say a sweet farewell
And walk beyond the grounds –
So into effervescing Love

Where Wisdom deep abounds.
Where visible/invisible 
Are brewed in sacred play,
And the laughter of the angels
Makes the night glow bright as day. 

A tilt-a-whirl of planets
In galaxies thrown grand,
The cosmos a great carousel,
A riot madly planned.

In joy we’ll fly and play and glow
In service to the One,
The true, the beautiful, the good
Supreme and holy One.

— Diana Kincannon started writing poems as a child (Oh lovely, lusty robin…). Retired in 2014 after enjoying careers in singing, theatre, and business, she’s glad at last to have time to explore the art of poetry through study 
and writing.

How to Watch the Law Being Made

A Short Guide to the 2025 General Assembly  

By Brenda Waugh

This month, we will not prepare for 2025 just by joining a gym, planning a diet, or even taking a trip. We are going to peek at the 2025 General Assembly in Virginia. We will review some key dates and then look at how the legislative process works in Virginia and how to locate bills and watch important hearings. Mark Twain once commented, “Those that respect the law and love sausage should watch neither being made.” It is a tough process, but being able to understand and watch it unfold can help each of us to be better 
informed citizens. 

The session will start on January 8, 2025. However, several events have already happened. Prefiling began on July 15, and the budget bill was presented on December 18. You can view the status of all bills, including those profiled online, at https://lis.virginia.gov/bill-search. Some of the bills that have already been introduced address issues such as cell phone usage at school and short-term rentals.

Once the session convenes on January 8, pre-filing ends, as does the last day to file legislation to create or continue a study. Only two days after convening, the last day to submit budget amendments 
is January 10. 

During the session, bills will be introduced in the House or the Senate—the deadline to introduce them in one house is January 17. Once a bill is introduced, it is usually referred to a committee, and the committee reviews the bill. The committe typically will either make changes and report the bill to the legislative body referring it, pass it without changes, or tie it up in committee without action. You can view the list of committees in the Virginia General Assembly here: https:
//tinyurl.com/VAbills2025

Much of what happens in the General Assembly happens in the committee process. If you are following a bill, be sure to follow the committee assignment and reach out to committee members if you have input on the bill. For bills in the House, you may participate remotely through this link: https://hodspeak.house.virginia.gov/. Both the House and the Senate provide a live stream of most committee meetings, with the link for the Senate found here: https://tinyurl.com/VASenateBills, and the House here: https://tinyurl.com/VAHouseStream

Almost a month after convening, any bill introduced in one house must cross over to the other, with the deadline being February 4, 2025. If a bill does not pass a body by “Crossover Day,” it is dead and will not become law in 2025. It is possible that the content of that bill may be inserted in another bill that did pass by amendment or during conference committee, but the bill itself will not pass. 

The next important date for all bills (other than the budget) is February 17, 2024. All committee action must be completed on the remaining bills, and the bill must be reported from the committee back out on the floor. 

When both the House and Senate pass a bill, but the draft that each pass is different, it is returned to the first body that passed it to see if they will adopt the changes proposed by the second body that acted on the bill. If they do not accept the changes, the bill is placed in a conference committee, which is a committee comprised of members of both houses who will negotiate to determine if they can resolve differences. A bill in the conference committee has another opportunity to pass both bodies by the last day of the session, February 22. If you are very interested in a bill and it gets into the conference committee, you should identify the committee members and contact them, since substantial changes may occur during the negotiation of a compromise in the conference. 

All bills must pass by midnight on February 22, 2025, and the session will adjourn Sine die (Latin for “without a fixed day). The governor has until March 24 to act on legislation. Most legislation that passes this session will be effective on July 1. 

This short summary didn’t include the substantial action that occurs with the budget. The budget is presented by the governor in advance of the session on December 18. Members have until January 10 to submit budget amendments. The House Appropriations and Senate Finance & Appropriations must act to complete action on budget bills by February 2. By February 6, the houses of origin must complete an action on the budget bill, and by February 12, the action must conclude. Conferees are appointed to work on the budget. The budget has a dedicated website, and you should follow that closely 
at https://budget.lis.virginia.gov/ 

While we may sometimes feel like we have no input in the laws that are adopted in our state, we can find opportunities to learn and to share our experiences with our legislators. Once you’ve learned about the bills and their place in the process, you may want to contact local representatives to discuss concerns and ideas.  Those are provided on the county’s website with contact information.  See ClarkeCounty.gov, then click government, then voter-registration-elections/elected-officials.

 Brenda Waugh is a lawyer/mediator with Waugh Law & Mediation, serving clients in the Blue Ridge region of Virginia and Eastern Panhandle of West Virginia.

Coexisting With Beavers

Story and illustration by Doug Pifer

Walking along a familiar path through the woods, I was shocked to find a pond where dry land used to be. Many of the trees had their roots underwater. Beavers had moved in.

Beavers are aquatic rodents that depend on tree bark for their winter food. They don’t want to risk their lives wandering over dry land to get it, so they build dams on waterways to make their tree cutting and branch gathering easier and safer. But people don’t want flooded roadways, backyards, or farm fields.

When beavers lay claim to a stretch of water near humans, people usually respond by trapping and removing beavers, tearing down their dams and un-clogging beaver-blocked culverts. Soon other beavers come along, the people and the beavers keep doing what they do, and the conflict continues. 

Trapping removes beavers only temporarily. They live and travel in family groups, and even skilled fur trappers don’t always catch all the animals from a given area. Live trapping and transferring beavers must be done in accordance with state game regulations. The beavers must be released in a suitable place, otherwise they become somebody 
else’s problem. 

A Northern Virginia-based organization, the Human Beaver Coexistence Fund (HBCF), encourages people to share land with active beavers while addressing beaver-caused flooding and tree-chewing in long-term, cost-effective ways. Alison Zak, founder and executive director of HBCF, conducts workshops and presentations for landowners and conservation groups about beaver behavior, natural history, and how beavers improve wildlife habitat. HBCF provides instruction and assistance to landowners wishing to minimize adverse effects of beaver activity.

If you already have a beaver pond on your land but don’t want beavers to flood the surrounding area, HBCF recommends setting up a pond leveler. An important flood management tool, it keeps the pond at a manageable level while allowing beavers to remain. Pond levelers last five to ten years and are more cost effective during this time than periodically tearing down dams and trapping beavers.

Beavers immediately try to plug any leak in their dam so a pond leveler creates a leak beavers can’t find. A corrugated plastic culvert pipe is inserted through the dam and extends upstream, anchored to the bottom by weights. The upstream end of the pipe connects to an intake cage, where beavers can’t reach it. The height where the culvert pipe goes through the dam sets the water level. During periods of heavy rain, or if the beavers build the dam higher than the pipe, the water in the pond stays level with the pipe. Propelled by gravity, overflow goes through the dam and downstream, undetected by the beavers. A pond leveler can be adjusted for the depth of the pond, as chosen by the landowner, and suited to the size of the pond. It should be set to keep the beaver pond as large as possible, otherwise the beavers move on and create another dam elsewhere. 

When beavers block a culvert, flooding results, so HBCF recommends setting up steel fencing around a culvert. Steel mesh fencing and metal poles are the best materials, and you need to inspect the fencing regularly to remove any debris blocking the water flow. Fencing needn’t extend high above the water since beavers don’t climb, but it should be buried deep enough into the substrate so beavers can’t 
dig underneath.

Over the past several months beavers have chewed trees and dammed Bullskin Run at Cool Spring Preserve, the Potomac Valley Audubon Society’s Jefferson County property. Bullskin Run was backing up, and water was overflowing the road near one of the culverts next to the preserve. In partnership with HBCF, PVAS volunteers and staff installed culvert fencing and wrapped trees with special protectors to discourage damage by beavers. So far, these efforts seem to 
be working.

HBCF has launched a Beaver Habitat Stewardship and Compensation program. Landowners in Maryland and Virginia who have beaver ponds on their property, and need to manage the beavers, may receive financial compensation, based on the impounded acreage plus a 35-foot buffer surrounding the beaver pond. Program participants who meet certain qualifications could receive up to $300 per acre over a three-year period from HBCF. For more information about this pilot program, 
see coexistwithbeavers.org

Beavers create wetland habitat for threatened or endangered wildlife. Beaver dams have been found to improve our own water quality by reducing levels of nitrogen and phosphorus. They help control and retain sediments, reduce peak flood flow, raise the water table, and enhance 
groundwater recharge. Humans and beavers can coexist, even though our activities sometimes put us at odds with each other.

Audubon Hosts Bird Survey and Walk Events

Potomac Valley Audubon Society (PVAS) is hosting its annual winter Climate Watch survey of the Cool Spring area on Friday, January 24, 2024 at 7:30–10:30am at Cool Spring Preserve, 1469 Lloyd Road, Charles Town, West Virginia.  

The Climate Watch project involves hemisphere-wide surveys to observe how bird populations are responding to climate change. Associate Director of Conservation and Operations KC Walters and bird expert Wil Hershberger will conduct their annual winter Climate Watch survey of the Cool Spring area. They will show you just how easy and fun it is to participate in this 
important community 
science research.

This event is free and open to the public ages 16 and older, but registration is required and limited to five participants. For more information and to register, see www.potomac
audubon.org/event/climate
-watch-survey-5/. Contact KC Walters at katelyn@
potomacaudubon.org or 681-252-1387 with questions.

PVAS will also host a bird walk at Rolling Ridge Conservancy (138 Tupelo Lane, Harpers Ferry, WV) on Tuesday, January 14 from 
7:30–10:30am. 

Explore the habitat and the bird life with others on the gorgeous trails of Rolling Ridge Conservancy, the largest, privately-owned wilderness area near Washington D.C., and along the entire Appalachian Trail. Anyone with an interest in birding is welcome to join trip leaders Bill Telfair and Master Naturalist Scot DeGraf as they explore some of the 1,500 acres of protected woodlands. These walks are held on the second Tuesday of every month.

This event is free and open to the public, ages 8 and older. All youth must be accompanied by an adult. Registration is required and limited to 15 participants. For additional details and to register, go to potomacaudubon.org/event/rolling-ridge-
conservancy-bird-walk-9.

Coiner Grand Emporium Has Something for Everyone

Story and photo by Rebecca Maynard

After many years of standing empty, the Coiner building at 26 East Main Street in Berryville is open to shoppers once more.

On December 6, Coiner Grand Emporium had its grand opening. Described by owner Jerry Johnson as a general store, its extensive inventory includes new and vintage items such as hats, collectible figurines, antique radios, lamps, toys, comic books, greeting cards, baseball cards, jewelry, candy and much more.

“Yesterday is waiting for you at Coiner Grand Emporium,” he said.

Coiner’s Department Store was founded by Emmett G. Coiner in 1896 and later purchased by Chet Hobert, who ran it until its shutdown almost a century later. A recent Barns of Rose Hill exhibit included people’s recollections of the store’s “cash trolley” used when customers paid for merchandise. Instead of a cash register, clerks sent payments along the trolley to an office upstairs. An office worker then sent the trolley down with change and a receipt.

Times have changed and the building has been closed since the early 2000s, but now with extensive renovations complete, it is once again a beautiful and welcoming place for customers of all ages. Over the weekend before Christmas, Santa welcomed children into the store and gave out gifts, harkening back to an era when department store Santas were still commonplace, Johnson said.

“There’s something for everybody from little kids to grandmas,” said Danielle Smith, one of the store’s co-managers who assisted with its renovation. Smith grew up in Clarke County and attended Clarke County High School, so she knows firsthand what Coiner’s history means to the community.

“Every other person who comes through the door has memories of shopping here in the past,” she said. “The community is really excited and we even had someone bring in their mother with dementia because she used to come in the store as a teen.”

Smith said that the upstairs was originally the toy section of Coiner’s Department store. While it is not open to the public yet, the plan is to display and sell large format paintings and furniture. Johnson, she said, particularly enjoys the 

Civil War and paintings by Mort Künstler and John Paul Strain. 

Coiner Grand Emporium has a Facebook page as well as a website, www.coinergrandemporium.com. Hours are currently daily from 10am to 7pm.

“My arms are full,” explained a happy customer who approached the register during the interview for this article, whose purchases included a hat and Cracker Jacks. “I want to buy everything.”

Clarke Monthly January 2025