Out and About: Harpers Ferry National Historical Park

By David Lillard

One thing sets Harpers Ferry, W.Va., apart from nearly every other park in the national park system. In most parks, you’re “inside the park” or outside. Inside the public land is where the features, exhibits, concessions, and maybe some lodging are. Outside is where all the commerce and shopping is. In Harpers Ferry, the experience of the two blends together — much like it does in most old towns.

The park brings to life three themes: American industrial history, the Civil War, and the history of slavery and Civil Rights. You can can wander along Shenandoah Street and lower High Street, in and out of exhibits depicting America’s westward expansion, 19th century arms manufacturing, life on a river frontier, and the experience African Americans emerging from enslavement to organizing for full citizenship. Each exhibit is housed in an historic commercial building. This adds to the feeling of riding your wagon into town on a Saturday to amble about town and pick up supplies. Just steps away are present-day shops and eateries.

You can also walk across the Potomac River to the C&O Canal Towpath for a scenic walk. If you want to see the river and town from above, hike up to Maryland Heights. It’s a steep poke up, but worth it — and there are plenty of places to stop for a rest.

The shopping scene in the Lower Town has evolved from the days when Civil War parks sold only boardwalk tchotchke. Now it’s a regional destination for local and international craft and art. Sure, you can still find Blue and Gray hats and memorabilia. You can also find beautiful handmade items at prices comparable to big box stores.

A Saturday in August

On a recent visit, after a leisurely walk along the river and visiting exhibits, I stopped at Ten Fold Fair Trade, a short walk away at 914 High Street. Ten Fold sells goods that are handcrafted by disadvantaged artisans who benefit from using their skills to earn a sustainable and fair income. I needed a hat that’s more dressed up than my usual ballcaps without the fancy price tag. I walked out sporting a straw fedora crafted in Mexico, with the added warmth of knowing that most of the 40 bucks was going to the actual person who made it.

Then I poked my head in some other shops and nibbled a few snacks no cardiologist would recommend. I decided to burn off the fried fat sugar bomb with a walk — the walk being the real reason for my visit.

As much as I enjoy the park exhibits, I visit Harpers Ferry to be outside. I like walking the trail on Virginius Island, where the ruins tell the story of 1800s industry on the Shenandoah. Climbing the stone stairway (or the steep but stable Public Way) to St. Peters Catholic Church is a must. The view across the Shenandoah is spectacular. It was an active parish until the 1990s, and is now under the stewardship of St. James parish in Charles Town. Mass is still celebrated on Sundays at 9:30am.

Continuing on the path from the church, which follows the Appalachian Trail route, to Jefferson Rock affords one of the most famous views of the region. Jefferson Rock is described in its National Registry of Historic Places as “several large masses of Harpers shale piled one upon the other, that overlook the Shenandoah River just prior to its confluence with the Potomac River. Thomas Jefferson, for whom the formation is named, summed up the view this way: “This scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic.”

A lazy picnic on the grass by the Doah is my favorite thing. No matter how busy things get in town, you can usually find a quiet space by the river for lunch and a nap.

Bolivar is for locals

Speaking of picnics, you’ll want to stop in Bolivar before you head over to the visitor center parking area off Route 340. There you’ll find all the provisions you need for a picnic in the park. If you do drive to the Lower Town, Washington Street in Bolivar becomes High Street in Harpers Ferry. My favorites include:

Bolivar Bread. Stop in for a baguette and local cheese, or go for the pepperoni roll (or more), and you’ve got everything  you need for a picnic. Don’t forget dessert! The pastries are yummy. [914 W. Washington St.]

Kelly Farm Kitchen. Their menu is 100 percent vegan, and it’s all delicious. I like the seitan Philly cheesesteak. [1112 W. Washington Street]

Snallygaster’s Café. A few doors from Kelly Farm Kitchen, grab a classic Italian, turkey BLT, or other cold sandwich from Snallygaster’s and you’re ready whenever lunchtime arrives. You can also visit Snallygaster’s after visiting town. Have dinner, then walk down to The Barn for live music and a drink. [1102 W. Washington St.]

Country Café. If you’re looking for a home cooking kind of breakfast, the Country Café has been serving up eggs, pancakes, and waffles for a long time. Nothing fancy; all good. [1723 W. Washington St.]

Bolivar has undergone a bit of a transformation over the last few years. The town’s story is kind of like the small towns in the animated movie Cars. At one time, Route 340 was Bolivar’s Main Street — and all the park traffic came through town. Once the National Park Service started running shuttles on a road built just for the buses, much of the foot traffic disappeared. 

Now it balances a fine line: having vibrant businesses that both locals and out-of-towners frequent. You’re much more likely to find a laid back local feel in Bolivar than down in the park.

Visit hallowed ground

For one of the best views of the Shenandoah River nearby, you’ll want to walk the Murphy-Chambers Farm Trail. The farm is the former site of John Brown’s Fort, also known as The Armory, which you will visit in the Lower Town. The Murphy family had allowed the fort to be relocated and reassembled there. They also allowed the public to visit. At the second meeting of the Niagara Movement, held at Storer College in Bolivar, the delegation walked to the farm to visit the building considered by Civil Rights advocates to be holy ground. So hallowed, in fact, that members of the procession took off their shoes to walk the rough road to pay homage to Brown. Now the site is marked by its foundation. Just beyond, is an overlook with an extraordinary view of the Shenandoah looking upstream toward Clarke County

Happy travels!

Information

Admission: The entrance fee is $20 per vehicle both at the visitor center and the train station in the Lower Town. Seasonal passes are available.

Your free ride: A free shuttle runs all day from the visitor center and back, departing every 10–15 minutes. You can also walk from the visitor center into town.

On the Web: See NPS.gov/hafe.